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Drill Charging Station With Storage

I wanted to maximize the remaining wall space at the end of my miter saw station with some custom storage that kept my most used tools and supplies at my fingertips. This drill charging station with storage not only holds all (yes ALL my drills HA!) and it charges them and has a battery bay. It also holds all my sand paper, fasteners and my most often used tools! Check out the full walkthrough below.



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plans available
Materials & Supplies*Tools*
(1) 3/4″ 4×8 Plywood (carcass)TS55 Track saw
(1) 1/2″ 4×8 Plywood (back)Countersink Drill Bit
Fastener Storage BinsKreg Shelf Pin Jig
¾” Locking Shelf ClipsSetup Blocks
Cabinet ScrewsKreg Pocket Hole Jig
Power StripCentipede Work Holder
Super GlueJapanese Pull Saw
AcceleratorLabel Maker
Speed Square
Festool LR32 hole drilling set
1.5 in Forstner Bit
Parallel Clamps
Flush Trim Pliers
Quad Trimmer

*I use affiliate links, please see details on my disclaimer.


More Information

I have more cabinet building resources listed below. If you want to know how to build base cabinets or how to hang cabinets onto concrete walls, I have full build videos, walkthroughs and plans available for download.

✅️ HOW TO BUILD UPPER CABINETS

✅️ HOW TO BUILD BASE CABINETS

centipede work holder

Cutting in a standing position is more comfortable and helps you be more accurate with your cuts too.

And the Centipede folds up easily and gets out of the way when your done with it. If you’d like to get one of these for yourself, check it out here: CENTIPEDE WORK HOLDER 4×8

Making The Drill Charging Station

This was a simple one-day build and it upped my organization by like a gazillion percent.

It takes 1 sheet of 3/4″ ply and half a sheet of 1/2″ ply.

I built this miter saw station and I left this last section of wall bare because at the time I hadn’t put a lot of thought into how I wanted to use it. All I knew is I didn’t want to build more cabinets just to take up the space.

I’ve decided that what I really want is a sort of grab-n-go organizer that gathered many of my most used items and put them at my finger tips.

I also want it to store and charge my growing collection of drills and drivers.

I’d like to stick to the clean and simple look that I gave the miter saw station. These items are so heavily used that they need to be visible and easy to get at and not behind doors.

Cutting the Drill Charging Station Parts

After cutting said plywood into large chunks I head to the table saw to cut out the basic parts of the case.

I’ll get the vertical sides and dividers as well as a top, bottom and one horizontal divider.

I always make the first cuts slightly too wide. Then I can go back and cut the ragged factory edge off the parts for a crisp clean look.

After that I can cut everything to final length as well as cut some shelves. Then, I can move on to cutting the joinery.

Cutting the Drill Charging Station Joinery

Primary joinery on this project will be pocket screws. My pocket cutting machine is maybe a bit different than what you’re used to seeing.

It uses routers instead of a drill to cut the pockets, which makes for a much cleaner pocket and a shallower angle of entry which helps a lot with your pieces not moving on you when you join them together.

If you have access to a Kreg jig that would work for this as well.

The next thing I want to do is add some shelf pin holes.

I want the option to adjust the shelves up and down depending on what tools I store in it.

A budget option here is the Kreg Shelf Pin Jig. Works well, but the holes from a drill aren’t nearly as clean and crisp as with a router.

with that out of the way, the last bit of cutting I need to do Is make rabbets in the back of the sides to house the back panel.

This is an easy process at the table saw that starts with using set up blocks to get the blade height and distance to the fence just right.

Set up blocks are simple to use and come in sets with loads of different sizes.

I make the first cut to establish the bottom of the rabbet which is the exact thickness the back panel will be.

Then I nudge the fence closer to the blade and make the next cut. I keep this process up until the fence just kisses the blade.

I can remove the last bit of material and now I have a nice clean rabbet along the back.

Adding Edge Banding

For the front edge of this thing, I’m going to apply some iron on edge banding.

I definitely think since this is a shop cabinet and it will take some abuse over time, adding hardwood edge banding would be a good way to go here, but I’m crunched for time and just want this project to be done so I can start using it.

The iron on stuff is easy to apply and the adhesive hardens in a couple minutes as opposed to gluing on hardwood and waiting a couple hours for that to dry. I want to keep moving and finally it’s time to assemble.

First, I build the basic box by attaching the top and bottom to the sides using pocket screws.

Assembling the Drill Charging Station

No glue, just screws but I still use clamps to keep everything nice and tight as I make these joints.

Even though these Castle pocket holes are way better when it comes to the joints moving on you, this is a large box and it’s nice to have a helping hand to keep everything from falling over.

Next, I’m going to drill a power access hole in the bottom of the case using the world’s dullest forstner bit. I also have a scrap of plywood underneath to prevent blowout on the other side of the hole.

Then, it’s time to add a back panel. I’m going with ½” ply for the back to make this thing sturdy.

It’s going to be holding a lot of weight so I want a back that’s heavy duty. It just slides right into the rabbets I cut. I’m going to pre drill and counter sink the holes using this countersink drill bit because why not do two things at one time?

Then I start popping in screws all around the back. With the basic carcass together, I can turn it over and build out the inside.

Drill Charging Station Interior

The bottom of the cabinet will be a drill charging station.

So, I add some shallow spacers and fasten the vertical divider into place with pocket screws.

Then, I need to add the three vertical dividers and these can really be placed wherever.

I know I want to keep my sandpaper on the left side so use my two different sized sanding discs to find the location of the first divider.

I then cut two spacers from a scrap of MDF to hold everything in place while I mark for my screw placement and drill my holes and add screws.

To screw this together from the bottom side I need to use a right angle attachment to my drill because the space so small.

My right angle attachment is for my Festool drill, but they make them for most major brand of drills.

I did the same process for the other two dividers making sure everything was nice and square and held those in place with clamps while I added the screws.

Now everything is assembled and it’s time to get this thing on the wall.

Hanging the Drill Charging Station

As luck would have it, two Festool systainers and a couple shims created the perfect platform to get this thing in place and level.

Which is nice because now I’m free to drill my pilot holes without having to hold the cabinet up with one hand.

Since this is a concrete block wall I’m using Tapcons to fasten it.

If you’re adding it to a normal framed wall, just locate the studs in the wall and attach using standard cabinet screws. Because this is 50 inches wide, I used a total of six screws to safely secure it to the wall.

The Drill Charging Station

The first thing I want to add is a power source.

Having this power strip tucked into the back will keep all the charger wires from hanging down below. And I have a lot of chargers. Over the last decade I’ve ended up with multiple tool brands and different voltage batteries and this is going to keep everything corralled into one place very well.

I’m going to add a divider between the chargers and the battery well.

This will keep things tidy and also provide support so the bottom shelf doesn’t sag over time.

I also need to move this spacer to the other side of the new divider.

Then I’m going to cut a thin strip of ½” ply that will make a nice false wall to hide the wires and power strip.

I left a 1” gap at the bottom for all the wires to fit underneath.

This gives the charging station a super clean look and the batteries are easy to add to the chargers without all the wires in the way.

I have plenty of space if I ever add more batteries to my stash.

Then I can pop my shelves into place.

Adding the Drill Charging Station Shelves

I’m using these plastic shelf clips because they hold the shelf in place which I thought was important since I don’t want to accidentally drag the shelf out when I pick up a tool.

Then, I can add all my sanding discs.

This space can hold all my 5 and 6 inch discs which is super nice.

These other cubbies can hold my most used tools. This is where having adjustable shelves is nice because I can make the most of the space.

Making a Drill Hanger Thingy

To get started, I need to fasten strips of plywood into these little T shapes. A couple screws will hold them together.

I’m careful to predrill the plywood otherwise the screws might split the ply in half.

You can make as many or as few of these as you need.

I’m going to attach all these T’s to a strip of plywood so everything is one solid unit which will make installing it way easier.

Super glue is a great temporary bond, just enough to hold them in place while I test the fit with a drill so I know how much gap to place between each one. I just repeat the same process over and over with each drill I want to store on it until I get to the end.

Then, I can turn the whole thing over and countersink some pilot holes down each side. And I can secure everything with screws.

Next, I’m going to add some pilot holes to the top for installation.

Installing it now is super easy I just eyeball where I want it to be and screw it into place.

The only thing to do now is load it up. Yeah, I know I have a drill hoarding problem.

Small Parts Storage and Organization

I realized at this point I missed a huge opportunity because there is room for loads of fasteners. But how to organize them? So I hopped onto the Amazon and found these organizer bins.

I like these bins a lot. They are twice the size of my old red bins and they’re clear so I can see how much is in there.

Also, I’ve already changed my mind about the layout and now the fastener bins are going to go on the right side for some visual balance.

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I did have to relocate the vertical divider so these fit snugly but it’s well worth it for 27 new organized bins. Labels are included but since my bins are so high up I decided to add my own labels to the front.

I think I’ve packed this thing out pretty well with some handy storage and it’s a pretty good use of this wall space! I’ve got my sand paper and fasteners, tools and all easy to grab and use.

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